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Post Info TOPIC: Palmer House near Holly Grove


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RE: Palmer House near Holly Grove


This feature story about the restoration of the Palmer House near Blackton appeared in the December 2008 issue of Arkansas Life (a magazine published by the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette).  [Note: many of the quotation  marks and apostrophes in this story somehow disappeared once I copied the story from the Arkansas Life web site. Don't know why ... Sorry. -- Jane]


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TRENDS| DIVERSIONS| PEOPLE| PALATE| CULTURE| WELLNESS| HABITAT

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If you've driven along U.S. 49, somewhere between the small town of Marvell and the smaller town of Blackton, near the Louisiana Purchase historic state park, where the cotton fields roll on forever flat and forever green, roll on like an endless Delta cliché, youve seen it.

It's the only thing to see that giant, brick cube rising from the dirt like something planted and forgotten, allowed to grow on its own, unwieldy and out of proportion to its surroundings.

The mansion it has to be a mansion, you decide at first sight sits southwest of the highway, not too far back from the road, but far enough to hide the blemishes, the half-century of abandonment. Far enough back to make it less of an oddball curiosity and more of a mystery.

What is that? Who built it? Why? Why here? If it had an address, itd be something like: #1 Highway 49, Middle-of-Nowhere, Ark.

Tommy Jameson couldnt resist the mystery. The preservation architect from Little Rock has driven that road to Helena-West Helena, seen that house, wondered.

"All the time," he says. "It's right in the middle of nowhere. In bad repair. Doors gaping open. I stopped and explored it once or twice."

Beth Wiedower, formerly of Little Rock, lives and works in Helena-West Helena as the field representative for the Arkansas Delta Rural Heritage Development Initiative. She knows the mystery house.

"It's just a miracle that the thing is still standing," she says. "Of course I've snuck in there. I couldnt resist."

Ditto John Crow, the owner of the Edwardian Inn, a bed-and-breakfast in Helena-West Helena, and something of a Delta historian.

"I've always been intrigued by that house," he says. "All my life. If you'd seen it before. The house was structurally solid, but the roof was in a bad way. It probably would have just collapsed, leaving only the bricks."

Double ditto Bill Worthen of the Historic Arkansas Museum in Little Rock.

"Every time you drive down to Helena, you notice it," Worthen says. "It's so nicely situated as it sits on that curve. For 45 years, its been sitting on that field, so well placed but so alone."

It's become a signpost for some of us who semi-regularly make the trek through the Delta. When I see the big brick house in the field, I know I'm about 25 miles outside Helena-West Helena. One day a couple of years back, when I saw the big brick house in the field, I saw something else, too. Something totally out of place: Life.

The mystery house was no longer a vestige of the forgotten past. It had a future again.

The story goes like this: One day, a fella named Jeremy Carroll was driving back to Little Rock from a disappointing trip to Oxford, Miss. Carroll is a business partner of Richard Butler Jr.'s, and both men share a passion for historic preservation. In fact, Carroll had been in Oxford on a preservation-hunting trip. According to Butler, Carroll had grown up in north-central Indiana, and had long admired that states old plantation manses, standing tall and alone, surrounded by corn fields.

Carroll's dream was to find a house like that, restore it, and live in it.

He'd heard about a two-story mansion in Oxford similar to the ones he so loved in Indiana. But it was in such bad shape that preservation was impossible. On his way home, driving along U.S. 49, Carroll saw it.

He screeched to a halt and called Butler. He'd found it.

"He made me drive over here," Butler recalls. "He prepared me for this big, wonderful sight."
He pauses. A grin crosses his lips.

"I like to think I'm a visionary," Butler says. "But it was in terrible shape."

Lets end the mystery here: The house was built between 1870 and 1873 by a Civil War veteran, lawyer, newspaperman and, to judge by the placement of his dream house in Middle-of-Nowhere, Ark., eccentric named John Coleman Palmer. A man perhaps as prominent in his era and territory as, say, a Stephens in Little Rock is today. The mansion came to be known in polite company as The Palmer House, and, in other kinds of company, as Palmer's Folly.

On a bright unseasonably comfortable day in late August, I met Butler at his home at 1620 Main St., aka, the Hotze House. Actually, its the smaller of the two Little Rock houses built by architect Peter Hotze, whose more famous mansion backs up to Butlers piece of history. (Hotze also built the Arkansas Gazette Building in downtown Little Rock.)

Butler bought his Hotze House after reading a story about its slow demise in the June 2000 issue of This Old House magazine. Butler restored it, removing up to five layers of roof on the outside, among other trials, and returning the cottage to its former glory within.

But that's another story. Today, the story is Palmer's Folly. Butler has promised a tour of the reconstruction-in-progress.

Butler himself is an old hand at this. The son of Richard Butler, the late banker, lawyer and philanthropist in Little Rock, Richard Jr. has been a leader on Arkansas historic preservation scene for years and sits on the board of the Historic Preservation Alliance of Arkansas.

So a two-hour ride in the car with Butler is like taking a crash course in restoration architecture and Arkansas history.

But the history of Palmer and his still-standing folly is sketchy. Butler has met two of Palmer's distant descendants, and they have provided photographs and remembrances of the house in its heyday. Another photograph of the house, dating from the first World War, has surfaced, too.

There's a story from the Monroe County Times of May 11, 1950, about a meeting of the ladies of the Monroe County Demonstration Club at the historic, interesting and beautiful Palmer home near Blackton.

But in many ways, Palmer has disappeared with the mists of time, leaving the biography of his Palmer House one of the most significant examples of Italianate architecture in Arkansas, and one of the oldest hiding in plain sight.

Google any combination of John Coleman Palmer and Palmer House, and you won't get much. Which only adds to the intrigue and interest.

Butler and Carroll are only the third owners of the property. Palmers great-grandson, R.E. Palmer, sold the house and dozens of farming acres around it to the Griffith family three decades back. And Joe Griffith, who farmed the land with his father, sold the house and five surrounding acres to Butler and Carroll almost three years ago. For a while, Griffith kicked around the idea of turning Palmer's Folly into a duck-hunting bed and breakfast. After all, the house may be surrounded by cotton fields, but it backs up to some prime Delta wetlands. (Somewhere in those wetlands, the ivory-billed woodpecker is rumored to have made an historic appearance.)

Griffith brought in Jameson.

"The house is in generally good shape for not having been occupied as long as it has," says Jameson, who oversaw the reconstruction of the Mosaic Templars building that recently opened in Little Rock. "My theory is the best preservation is use. But because of the load-bearing masonry walls, it was able to stay relatively dry."

Jameson is still a consulting architect on the project; Butler's and Carroll's lead architect is Bob Sanders.

So far, the house sits about 95 percent complete on the outside.

As Butler unlocks the gate to the construction site, he points to the front porch. It represents a perfect example of forensic architecture, for in the old black-and-white photo from World War I and the story and photo in the Monroe County Times of May 11, 1950, the Palmer House featured a screened-in porch that ran its front length.

That didn't make sense for a mansion built in the Italianate style in 1870. Jamesons research showed that this model should have had a smaller porch just covering the front door.

Upon closer inspection, Jameson found faint white marks on the red bricks near the front door. Paint marks.

"They had just lapped the paint from the porch onto the brick," Jameson says. "That told me it wasn't the original porch. The removal of the screened-in porch exposed the outline of the original porch. We drew the outline and extruded it out. Then did some research of other, similar structures and found one really close. Thanks to a sloppy paint job, we were able to restore it to the original look."

"Tommy is an architectural sleuth," says Butler. He's now entered his folly, exposing his visitors to all the work yet to be done. The stairway has been put in storage. The walls are a jigsaw puzzle of paper layers and plaster. Decades of dirt and grime hide the original wood floors.

But even in its various states of decline and resurrection, the Palmer house retains its architectural interest. Ol' John Coleman was more renaissance man than we knew. He was an architectural trend-setter, putting in closets (rare to unheard-of in late 19th century homes) and heating the entire house via a boiler in the basement that streamed heat through a fairly complex ventilation system. So efficient was his heating contraption that the fireplaces throughout the house are fake, just ornaments.

"I'd like to put period furniture in it," Butler says as he walks through his project, "and open it to the public several times a year. Maybe rent it out for parties."

On the north side of the grounds, on the cusp of the wetlands, stand three dilapidated shot-gun shacks. Butler schemes to have them renovated to a livable degree and rent them to duck-hunters or ivory-billed dreamers. One of the shot-guns comes direct from the Thompson Farm at nearby Turkey Scratch, Ark. (You won't find it on the map.)

Levon Helm grew up in that one, Butler says of the legendary musician. Im thinking of having the Helm House be for the caretaker.

The third-floor attic could be renovated into apartments. A kitchen still needs to be built on the grounds, just removed from the main house as was the case in the late 1800s.

But all this is still but a wonderful fantasy. Butler and Carroll bought the property two-and-a-half years ago, and reconstruction has slowed. (For one important thing, Sanders, the architect, is recovering from illness.) Ideally, Butler says, the Palmer House would stand restored by 2012. Six years to re-do what John C. Palmer did in three.

At one point during the tour, Butler seems to both laugh and sigh at the enormity of his restoration project. The very idea of preserving something known as Palmer's Folly has a kind of modern madness to it.

He notes the logistical oddity that still applies to Palmers monument in the middle-of-nowhere.
"We get the water from Marvell, the electricity from Woodruff County and our mailing address is Holly Grove," Butler says. "All 18 miles in different directions."

Ah, yes, the hubris of man the castle-builder.

But give it a few years. Then maybe well be reading about an open house at the new, old Palmer plantation, maybe with a paragraph similar to this one in that long-ago story in the Monroe County Times:

True southern hospitality, extended in the oldest home in Monroe County, made the afternoon a perfect one for the many who were fortunate enough to visit the Palmers.

Southern hospitality and old homes. Its a combination that never goes out of style.

 

 


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-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 20:40, 2008-11-29

-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 20:49, 2008-11-29

-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 20:50, 2008-11-29

-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 20:52, 2008-11-29

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from the Oct. 19, 2008, Arkansas Democrat-Gazette:


(The restoration of the Palmer House, located on Highway 49 near Blackton, is featured in this story. Richard Butler Jr. of Little Rock, also mentioned in the story, is one of the owners of the Palmer House now and oversaw its recent restoration.)

A SUNDAY CONVERSATION TOMMY JAMESON

Forensic architecture


Its a few days before the grand re-opening of the Mosaic Templars Building in downtown Little Rock, and Tommy Jameson is showing a visitor whats left of the original building. Its the stone pediment, an intimidating rock the size of a small car. Carved into the granite is a snake eating its tail. It symbolizes the cyclical nature of life, Jameson says. The huge pediment with its mysterious relief work must have made for an interesting, slightly spooky greeting above the old building. Now it adorns the new buildings main lobby as a curiosity and relic.

Thats a 1,500-pound piece of granite, Jameson says, touching the weathered stone with a combination of pride and sadness.

The pediment and the original cornerstone are about all that survived the fire. Thanks to the fire-the second to strike the original complex-the Mosaic Templars building is just that: new. Its not a rehabilitation or preservation job but a reinvention, an historic copy of the landmark and hub of the black business community that so enriched Ninth Street once upon a time in Little Rock.

Before an arson struck one March morning in 2005, Jameson was working on what he thought would be a restoration of the 1911 Mosaic Templars building. The Little Rock native is one of a handful of architects in Arkansas to specialize in historic preservation-or forensic architecture, as he calls it-even having restored the oldest house in the state, the Jacob Wolf House near Norfork, Arkansas.

Yes, the Mosaic Templars Building and Tommy Jameson seemed made for each other, ideal partners in bringing past to present.

Then the fire. I felt like Id lost a family member, Jameson recalls. It truly was like losing a relative.

His firm, Jameson Architects, had put six weeks into the project already, developing 80 sheets of designs. This is what they mean by Back To The Drawing Board.

In the end, which is the beginning for the new Mosaic Templars Cutural Center, Jameson succeeded in replicating history.

Wed tried to do a faithful reconstruction, he says, pointing out the suspended balcony and pressed metal ceiling in the 400-seat auditorium, an historic clone of a room that hosted such acts as Count Basies Orchestra. Back in the day.

This is kind of an anomaly on my résumé, Jameson continues. We were here because of a historic building.

Now that the Mosaic Templars Cultural Center has opened, Jameson can return to the more comfortable past. Its where hes made his living-and his mark. Hes had a hand in restoring historic Arkansas from border to border.

Consider the projects hes worked on: the rehabilitation of Helenas Miller Hotel, Malco Theater and Moore-Hornor House, among other projects in that Delta town; the rehabilitation of courthouses in six counties; the restoration of St. Edwards Catholic Church in Little Rock; the adaptive re-use of a historic home into a bed-and-breakfast on the Henderson State University campus in Arkadelphia; the rehabilitation of the presidents house (1938) at the University of Central Arkansas in Conway; a partner in the rehab of the Cox Creative Center in Little Rocks River Market; all kinds of work on the state Capitol; and the complete overhaul of the 179-year-old Jacob Wolf House in Norfork.

To name a few.

Richard Butler Jr., a dedicated preservationist from Little Rock, calls Jameson an architectural sleuth.

He has found clues to a houses hidden history in sloppy strokes from a paintbrush, in doorways that seem tooshort, in drip lines created decades ago by seasonal rains, and even in trash buried deep in the ground.

Preservation architects form a small club. (Included among them is one of Jamesons mentors and former employers, Charles Witsell.) And for good reason. Architects say it may be the disciplines most difficult specialty.

Jameson, a Little Rock boy and Malvern High graduate, a kid who was comfortable with a pencil in his hand, became an architect the old-fashioned way: His guidance counselor told him to do it.

So I went to Fayetteville [to study architecture]. In my fifth year, I took a three-hour elective from Cyrus Sutherland called Restoration and Preservation. And I was like, Wow!

A eureka moment?

Yeah. And Cy was into Vernacular Architecture.

What does that mean?

Undesigned. Lots of old houses in Northwest Arkansas didnt have an architect; they were designed by word of mouth and passing down ideas. Cy had all these great names for them. Youve seen cottages that have window, door, door, window? He calls that a dupledoor cottage. He had great little names for all these little generic, undesigned buildings and houses. So that sparked my interest. You know, Im going to come back to Little Rock and buy a historic house when I graduate!

Which is exactly what Jameson did. By the Fourth of July 1977, hed bought a sagging Colonial Revival at 2119 Scott Street. This being Arkansas, the house had a small-world, whos-who connection: it had been owned by Townsend Wolfe, the former director of the Arkansas Arts Center.

He and [his wife] had fixed it up and used the house next door as a studio. Then it was rental property. It looked bad. So I got a good deal on it. I was painting it, then went to work at Witsell Evans Rasco [which specializes in historic preservation] and quickly learned I had overpainted. I had painted it in a Victorian color scheme, and it was a 1906 Colonial Revival house. So I re-painted.

It may have been his first experience with Forensic Architecture. Hes now a kind of Sherlock Holmes of the brickand-mortar set. Or, to be more culturally current, you might think of Jamesons approach as housing CSI.

He practically lives among his historic finds. Well, theres no practically to it. Jamesons family lives in the Little Rock neighborhood of Hillcrest near Knoop Park in an old house-of course-built in 1936 by the man who founded Baldwin Shell construction.

The family lived there till they died in their 70s, Jameson says. The two words to best describe it would be, Decayed Elegance. In 20 years, weve done a lot. Painted it outside three or four times. Soaked the wallpaper off. Its more us now, but it was a very, very well built house. Uncommonly good. Load-bearing walls. No stud cavity. Concrete and steel foundation.

Jameson talks about solid construction the way an English teacher might a properly diagrammed sentence-with deep affection for an under-appreciated craft.

Hes being interviewed in his office, which serves as inspiration for his trade and his romantic view of it. If youve driven down Third Street near the state Capitol, youve seen the offices of Jameson Architects.

Oh yes you have. On the corner of Third and Pulaski? Not far from Cothams? Still not getting the visual? How about this: Its that canary-yellow turn-of-the-20th-Century cottage with one of the worlds great wrap-around porches.

Yes, that one. Originally the 1904 Abrams house, then That Dump Near The Capital, its now Yellow House On Corner and the calling card for Tommy Jameson, who, naturally, restored it. Practice what you preach, he says.

A wise business decision, because the only thing more irresistible for a Southerner than a refurbished old house is a refurbished old house witha killer porch.

Southerners love old houses for at least a couple of reasons: (1) We have lots of them. (Pity we dont have more.) They haunt the post-bellum South like proper ghosts, inviting all kinds of gossipy mystery. And (2) old houses have stories. We love stories.

The Little Rock writer James Morgan once authored a book entitled If These Walls Had Ears, a biography of a house. And anybody in a drafty old house anywhere in Arkansas could relate. Old houses speak to us-even if they cant talk.

Consider the Jacob Wolf House of Norfork. Built circa 1829, the Wolf House is the last remaining territorial courthouse in the state. And when Jameson and his team undertook its restoration a few years back, in their attempt to exhume the past, the house spoke.

Heres one example: Jameson & Co. couldnt tell for certain which side of the house was the original front. The house sat between a road and the White River, but research showed that the road was built during the Civil War, decades after the Wolf house went up. The river, of course, has flowed since memory runneth not to the contrary.

An archeological dig found trash buried deep underground-on the road side.

Which means?

Jameson turns to his computer, quickly tapping the mouse to bring upsnapshots and maps. Everything in the ground on this side, he says, pointing to the river side, is pre-Civil War. Everything in the ground on this [road side] is post-Civil War. You dont throw trash out in the front yard. You throw it in the back yard. Before the Civil War, the river was the highway. The front was the river side. During the war, a military road came in. The back became the front of the house.

He turns away from the computer, and smiles wide. Forensic architecture, he says.

On the cluttered bulletin board across from his equally cluttered desk, Jameson keeps a Before picture of another house that spoke from the past. Its the Palmer House in Monroe County. It was built not long after the Civil War by war veteran, lawyer and newspaperman John Coleman Palmer.

Visible from Highway 49, the Palmer House rises out of the flat farmland like a gorgeous, Italianate-style, three-storyand-attic mistake. The locals called it Palmers Folly. And still do.

Jameson has been a consulting architect on the Palmer House. Problem: There are no old blueprints and hardly any old photos of the Palmer place. So nobody knows for sure just what it looked like when ol John Coleman built it in the middle of Nowheresville, Ark.

A screened-in wooden porch ran the length of the house across the front, and most folks thought it was original. On closer inspection, Jameson discovered the faint, white outline of a smaller porch and doorway. What looked like unimportant white chalk lines on the faded red brick were clues. He hit the books. Sure enough, the style of Italianate architecture in the late 19th Century tended toward the smaller porch.

Et voila! The house had spoken.

Forensic architecture.

So what is it about restoring, saving, breathing new life into old buildings and structures and homes that makes us put in all the money and sweat equity? Especially when its so much easier to just build a new something?

Most homeowners cant build something new from scratch due to the limitations of time and skill. But a homeowner can put sweat equity into an existing structure while theyre living in it-and there are two benefits that come to mind. Sweat equity is just that-equity-that builds value and does not cost as much out of your pocket, thus a homeowner can make money by doing it themselves.

The second benefit, particularly with a historic structure, is the pride, satisfaction and good feeling that comes from saving/restoring/preserving/recycling something that has a history, character, charm, a story, as well as the pride [and] satisfaction. . . . from accomplishing it yourself. It feels good!

A final question. And this one isnt fair to any architect or lover of old buildings, especially in Little Rock where weve lost so much housing stock. (Just look at photos of Main Street in its early20th Century heyday, then walk down the street today. Sad.)

Is there an old building or house in Arkansas that youd like to restore or see restored?

We were involved in a project called the Early Arkansas Settlement Study, where we documented eight unique log structures in Arkansas. All were built before the Civil War. Two of them have settled futures: McGuire House, west of Fayetteville, and Arnold Spring outside Melbourne. Arkansas had thousands of log structures built in the 19th Century-only a modest number are left, and theyre going fast. Also, Helena.

Weve been working Helena for a variety of clients for 14 years. During that time, it seems more buildings have come down than have been saved. I wish we could rehabilitate and restore the whole town.

This article was published Sunday, October 19, 2008.

-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 21:48, 2008-10-19

-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 21:49, 2008-10-19

-- Edited by Jane Dearing Dennis at 21:51, 2008-10-19

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